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story Alex Eberspaecher Photos provided by City of St.John's. There is nothing on the other side - nothing but ocean for thousands of kilometres - at least not until one arrives somewhere in Europe: The other side of the world. Nobody knows for sure when this natural harbour was discovered. We don’t even know if it was Portuguese fishermen or perhaps the Vikings over a thousand years ago, but everybody in Newfoundland, especially here around the St. John’s Harbour, is quite certain that North America, as we know it today, had its beginning right here where I am standing. As a settlement, St. John’s undoubtedly takes this honour, but it was on the northern tip of Newfoundland, at the L’Anse aux Meadows UNESCO World Heritage Site that Newfoundland, indeed Canada and all of North America, began. It was here in the year of 1003 that Leif Erikson’s German-born stepfather, Tyker, was the first European to step on land – thus "Newfoundland." Then again, North America was rediscovered, possibly for the third time, quite recently by Columbus in 1492. The ancient history of Newfoundland’s people is still shrouded today in mystery and legend. When the land was first discovered, the indigenous inhabitants, the Beothuk people, lived on "The Rock," but they also were relative newcomers. With the death of Shanawdithhit in 1829, the last individual of the native people, this part of history too was lost forever. It is not even known for sure why she died. The old British record shows that it was from tuberculosis, but most Newfoundlanders will tell you it was more likely a broken heart. St. John’s is the oldest English settlement in North America, yet its name was given to the settlement by an Italian explorer, Giovanni John Caboto in 1497, and that probably means the village then was already a well-established settlement by the time Columbus discovered America. By the early 1500’s, the fishing fleets from Spain, France and Portugal were regular visitors to the natural deep-water harbour of St. John’s and to this date, it still is a common sight to see a rusty ship from Spain or Portugal moored beside a local fishing vessel as they take on provisions or make repairs. Located on the northeast coast of the Avalon Peninsula of southern Newfoundland, today’s downtown St. John’s bears little witness to its early days. Having been destroyed by fire a number of times, it nevertheless gives visitors a taste of times past. Whether it’s the impressive Basilica and the many other churches, or its winding and ridiculously steep streets bordered by wooden houses that are so beautifully painted, the old city of St. John’s, with few exceptions, has changed little during this past century and a half. In its uniqueness, the town stands on its own even when it comes to the weather. It is the cloudiest and snowiest city and boasts the greatest rainfall in all of Canada, yet it is also the third mildest of all Canadian cities in winter. Without doubt, St. John’s is one of the most interesting of all Canadian cities and its people are among the friendliest anywhere. To confirm this point, the "Townies," as the rest of Newfoundlanders describe the people of St. John’s, established an entertainment district unlike any other in all of North America. Where else can you find over 50 pubs and bars in one short city block as you find on George Street? “And Buddy, that’d be a record!” From George Street, it is a short stroll to the Anglican Cathedral on Gower Street. In the old part of town, everything is only a short stroll away and everything seems to always be uphill, yet you probably will never be more than two or three short blocks away from the harbour. That, my friends, is probably a very good thing if you have previously been on a pub-crawl on George Street. Yet, it is not the impressive Anglican Cathedral that has drawn me up here but the graveyard that faces, of course, the water. Here, in a rather tiny space, not much larger than a good house lot, is the final resting place of 5,000 souls from the past. Wandering about the gravestones reading the names is very much like reading a history book. Don’t be surprised if one of your ancestors is resting here. After all, Canada began here. Look east toward Europe and the Atlantic and you see another important milestone of our heritage - Signal Hill - with its Cabot Tower where modern communications had its historic beginning in 1901. It was here on a windy but clear December 12th that Senior Marconi sent the very first Trans-Atlantic telegraph signal to England from a 120 metre long copper wire that was attached to a kite. It is also here, at the foot of Cabot Tower, that affords the visitor a most spectacular view. Behind is the city of St. John’s with its natural harbour and its fishing boats, and to the east is the wide-open ocean. On good days, sometimes right into mid-summer, there are spectacular icebergs passing silently by the mouth of the harbour only to disappear in the ghostly fog. When you watch the mountains of ice vanish near the horizon, you will know that it was here, far out at sea on a dark night, that the Titanic collided with an iceberg. Today, you probably can’t see a large ship but the occasional fishing boat returning home. Yet, in all likelihood, it will be a good day to see one or two whales diving among the icebergs until they, too, finally disappear in the mysterious cold waters. Nevertheless, take your time up there by the Cabot Tower even if it is windy most days. Look directly east and look long, because it is from there, that your own roots have likely come. Descending Signal Hill, visitors are well advised to stop by the impressive Geo Centre. Discover the world’s underground, geological beginning. You will learn that Signal Hill, where you are standing, is 450 million years older than the Rocky Mountains and 300 million years older than the first dinosaurs. Nearby is the new Art Gallery and Natural Museum, but for that you may need a whole day in itself. As the fog rolls in and the sea once again becomes ominous and mysteriously dark, visit the Titanic Cemetery now that you have seen for yourself where she went down. There will still be time for another visit to the pubs of George Street for a brew or two and join the friendly people celebrating life - as only Newfoundlanders can - and believe me - it can be downright infectious. But for now, forget the problems of the world and get lost in our past. Welcome to Newfoundland. GL |
ABOVE Icebergs at coastline. In downtown St. John's, everything is uphill.  Cabot Tower.  Iceberg.
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