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| “….all of us have in our veins the exact same percentage of salt in our blood that exists in the ocean…. We are tied to the ocean. And when we go back to the sea – whether it is to sail or to watch it – we are going back from whence we came.” ~ John Fitzgerald Kennedy | ||||
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story Alex Eberspaecher photos Judy Eberspaecher North Carolina rarely gets as hot as its southern neighbour or Florida, but compared to Great Britain, any decent weather feels good. So it should come as no surprise that the records of Sir Walter Raleigh show that on an unusually hot day in July of 1587 he realized a dream (in the company of 117 men, women and children) when he set foot on Roanoke Island - now part of The Outer Banks. Raleigh had long dreamed of establishing a permanent settlement in the New World and finally in 1587, despite the war with Spain, Queen Elizabeth I had given her blessings (and presumably the funds) to do so. Two seasons later, the new colony had become a lost colony, disappearing without a trace. Modern day researchers are no closer than they were a hundred years ago in their quest to trace these lost settlers. To add to the mysterious disappearance, in 1589 a large sycamore tree was discovered with a Maltese Cross obscuring the letters CRO carved in its bark, yet there has never been as much as a trace found of the brave men and women whose fate has haunted modern historians to this day. The Outer Banks is a 210-kilometre long chain of islands, sand spits, dunes and marshes, all connected by causeways, bridges and at times, ferries. Today’s traveller will encounter little problems traversing the Outer Banks, although at times you may have difficulty distinguishing between where the sea ends and the land begins! Depending on the traveller’s preferences, the land may be defined by its old seaside villages (some date back more than 300 years), perhaps its parks and nature preserves or countless dunes, and of course, the beautiful clean beaches that are tucked behind them. Buxton Beach at Cape Hatteras was named in the Top Ten “Best Beach in America” list for 2008, but this is just one of the pristine beaches you can enjoy. Imposing lighthouses tower over lone pine trees to stand watch over the sea, although there are hundreds of recorded shipwrecks along its shores, some of which are visible at low tide. The Outer Banks is well deserving of the designation "Graveyard of the Atlantic." The treacherous waters that lie off the coast of the Outer Banks are well deserving of the dubious honour and although only about 600 wrecks have been positively identified, there are many more. It is here in the waters around Cape Hatteras that countless Allied tankers and cargo ships were lost during World War II, when German submarines prowled just off the coast in what eventually became known as Torpedo Alley. The brand new museum at Cape Hatteras, part of the National Seashore of North Carolina, is certainly worth a visit. Route 12 winds the length of The Banks from the north to the south, past countless, easily accessible beaches, museums and historic US lifesaving stations. The forerunner of the US Coast Guard, these historic stations are open year round and the staff are more than willing to spin you a yarn or two about some mysterious ghost ship that may appear on a foggy day. They may retell stories about heroes from days gone by, saving some desperate soul from floundering wrecks during the most horrific storms. If the history of flight is more to your liking, a tour through the Wright Brothers National Museum in Kill Devil Hills near the village of Kitty Hawk is advisable. If that does not take up most of your day, you can hangglide off the highest sand dunes found along the east coast of the US - a few minutes south in Jockey’s Ridge State Park near Nags Head. The sand dunes are not as high as mountains, but steep enough to give the adventurer an adrenalin rush to remember. Driving south toward Cape Hatteras, don’t be surprised when you see nothing but Canadian license plates along a narrow strip of land between Avon and Buxton. You have arrived at the legendary “Canadian Hole” - the Mecca for all the serious wind surfers from the great white north. Indeed, nature makes The Outer Banks a truly special destination. Setting it aside from the bustling tourist centres further south, there are no theme parks, save here and there a few interpretive centres dedicated to the first settlers or natives, but there are countless nature preserves, parks and museums. Golf courses are not as plentiful as they are in Myrtle Beach, yet the half dozen or so that are on the Outer Banks (and there are a few more on the mainland a short drive from the sea) are just as spectacular and challenging. Winding along the oceanfront, some of the public courses are very similar to the links courses of Scotland, challenging at times but unforgettable in their natural beauty. Arriving on OBX from the mainland, a few kilometres to the north, the village of Duck is as unique as the rest of The Banks. With the exception of a few boutique stores and the occasional restaurant, the village is comprised of beautiful homes. Neatly situated and well kept, many such houses are for rent and can be reserved from days to months. While many are suitable for a single family, two or more families can share the larger ones. One thing worth noting about Duck (and most of The Outer Banks) is that it is pet friendly. In fact, within the small community of Duck, there is even a regular pet gettogether complete with breakfast for our companions. Throughout the OBX, pets are allowed on most beaches. Along the coast, fishing is permitted from shore, from some bridges and from boats. Commercial fishing boats can be hired throughout the season and instead of hook and line, large nets will bring in an amazing assortment of creatures. Fish, clams and crabs, as well as anything else that can crawl and swim, is hauled in and placed on large tables or fish tanks for the explorer to study, handle and photograph before being released back into their natural environment. It is the weather, though, that sets The Outer Banks apart from its neighbouring state of South Carolina and more so, Florida. From mid-spring to late fall, the temperatures are very comfortable and if it gets too hot some days, the steady breeze from the sea is much appreciated. The wild ponies welcome it especially, as they come out from the sand dunes toward evening - if only to share the surf with us as we walk into the sunset on a beach that is still pristine in nature. Without any signs or fences indicating ownership, the beach isn't claimed by anyone except, perhaps, the ponies and a few crabs that scurry back into the mysterious sea. GL |
ABOVE The wild horses of Corolla are believed to be the descendants of Spanish mustangs. An interesting find at Coquina Beach Photo courtesy of Outer Banks Visitors Bureau  Premium Life Charters gives landlubbers an opportunity to get up close and personal with Outer Banks sea life  Bodie Island Lighthouse, one of the furthest inland beacons in the U.S., stands 47.5 metres and its range is 30km
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