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French Polynesia

 

story and photos Frank Greco

French Polynesia is a place viewed by many as pure paradise. Located between Hawaii and New Zealand, it is often the stuff of travel dreams. The most famous island in this group is Bora Bora not to be outdone by Tahiti, Moorea and Rangiroa.

There are no direct flights from Canada. All international flights land in Tahiti’s capital, Papeete (pronounced pah-pay-eh-tay). Flights arrive in the early morning hours, but once the warm sun rises, your eyes will marvel at the lush green hills, sparkling blue water, perhaps a rainbow and the friendliest people you will ever meet.

Getting around the island could not be easier. The transportation of choice is called a Le Truck – flatbed trucks converted into commuter busses (for air conditioning, just slide the window down). Le Trucks circle around the whole island at somewhat regular intervals. This is a great way to see Tahiti for less than a Canadian Twoonie.

The local Market (Le Marché) located in the heart of Papeete, must be experienced. Everyone in Tahiti seems to congregate here, where you will find anything from local farming products, to authentic handcrafts, foods, spices, luscious ripe fruits, scented soaps, deserts, preserves, woven hats and bags, shell necklaces, carvings, fl owers and all types of fish.

Moorea (pronounced Moe-oh-ray-ah), forms a picturesque backdrop against the horizon as viewed from the western shores of its sister island, Tahiti. A 30-minute high-speed Catamaran ride will take you there from Tahiti or if you prefer adventure, take the shortest plane ride in the world. In less than 10 minutes, you land in Moorea, no matter what seat you choose, you can see into the cockpit and enjoy the pilot’s view.

This island is renowned for starting the over-water bungalow phenomena when the hotel Bali Hai opened in the 1960s. The resort extended into the lagoon at Cook’s Bay and this unique idea soon caught on in Tahiti and the other islands. There is nothing quite like the experience of walking out your front door, sitting in a comfortable lounge chair, sipping a morning coffee and seeing the inviting crystal clear ocean water surrounding your bungalow. Dangle your feet in the inviting water, tease the multitude of fish swimming around your toes, bask in the sun or jump in and swim with the fish. Its unforgettable and best experienced with a loved one.

Moorea is comprised of lush mountains, rainforests and pineapple plantations. The views from these mountains are awe-inspiring, especially from a place called Belvedere lookout. Visitors get a spectacular panoramic view of Moorea’s coastline and bays. The best way to see this beauty is to rent a motor scooter and drive along the 64 km paved road that circles the island. Plan on this taking at least 4 hours (or more) not because of traffic congestion, but because of the stops you make to take memorable photos/video.

A one-hour flight from Tahiti is probably the single most famous island in the world, Bora Bora. The actual name of the island was Pora Pora (there is no “B” in the Tahitian language). When the famed Captain James Cook first heard the name in the late 1700s he mistook the softened sound of the Tahitian “P” for “B” and called the island Bora Bora.

Landing on the island is thrilling. Get a window seat and have your camera ready, you will want to capture this spectacular island paradise. The landing strip is not part of the island; built in the lagoon on a motu (small islet), it seems as you are landing in the lagoon waters. Once you disembark and walk to the open-air baggage pick-up area, you will be greeted with the most amazing view of Bora Bora. Two towering black peaks propel up from the centre of the island, lushness and the most seductive hues of turquoise water you have ever seen surround them.

A modern ferryboat will whisk you to the main village of Vaitape (pronounced Va-ee-tah-pee) on the island’s west coast where your hotel transport awaits. Viatape is the main village where you can purchase souvenirs, food items and it seems that on every corner, yoou'll find black pearl jewellery. I always thought "diamonds are a girl’s best friend," but French Polynesia, especially on Bora Bora, has proven that it’s really black pearls.

One of the best ways to see Bora Bora is to rent a bicycle and peddle around the island (approximately 38 km). The road is fairly good and the tour will take more than two hours to complete.

If you bike around the island, make sure you have plenty of water and snacks with you because there are more black pearl stores than there are food retailers. Bora Bora is home to the world famous Bloody Mary’s bar. Located just a few kilometres from Vaitape, this restaurant bar is frequented by many celebrities. The fresh catches of the day are displayed on a huge table (except on Sundays), for all to see. In front is an extraordinary dock that extends deep into the lagoon. Here you can sit at the edge, watch the fishermen pull in their catch and get a stunning view of the Bora Bora peaks.

An extreme way to explore the island is by jet ski, an experience like none-other. Guides will take you on a circumnavigation of Bora Bora. The water in this lagoon is noted for being some of the clearest on Earth, so clear that you can see 12 metres (40 ft) or more to the bottom. The real attraction on your tour is the marine life you will be spotting. During planned stops in the lagoon, make sure to look down. If you don't see any sharks, manta rays, moray eels, turtles or many other large fish, then you may require glasses.

Bora Bora is rated as one of the elite scuba diving destinations in the world. For the adventurous, dive shops offer a shark-feeding experience. Picture yourself 50 feet under water, your guide positions you in a semi-circle, he moves in front and pulls out a tuna head from a bag and then in a frenzy, four or more lemon sharks fight for the meal. One shark succeeds and swims off with the tuna head engulfed in its mouth. These sharks measure two to three metres in length. As your dive group swims away, some sharks do follow (they are curious), but don’t worry, they won’t attack - just don’t carry the tuna head!

An hour's flight from Bora Bora is the island of Rangiroa. Viewed from the air, Rangiroa has been described as a giant pearl necklace laid upon the water. There are more than 240 tiny motu’s (islets), each one not more than 3 feet in elevation, strung together to form Rangiroa. The island of Tahiti can fit inside Rangiroa’s lagoon.

Tourists flock to the Tiputa Pass (in the village of Tiputa - just minutes from the airport) to watch a daily occurrence. As the tide changes, the ocean water clashes with the lagoon forming two to four metre waves that crash through the Tiputa Pass. A family of bottlenose dolphins makes this their playground. Twice a day, they jump high above these waves performing for all on lookers.

Rangiroa provides miles of empty beaches and hundreds of deserted motu’s that you can call your own, but of the most popular tourist excursions is “Lagon Bleu” (Blue Lagoon). Described as a lagoon within a lagoon, it is like wading in a very shallow swimming pool. Great for lounging, snorkelling or swimming with baby sharks, the water barely gets waist high in places.

French Polynesia is a true paradise on earth. GL


Frank Greco


Frank Greco is a world traveller, producer and host of
a new television series called The Travel Guy
airing in 116 countries.

Frank can be contacted at: frank@thetravelguy.tv.
ABOVE Bora Bora Lagoon




Belvedere Look-out-The most visited spot in Moorea




A view of Moorea from Tahiti forms an alluring backdrop on the horizon. Moorea is only 17 km from Tahiti.




The towering peaks of Bora Bora dwarf the luxury overwater bungalows that surround its coastline.




Rangiroa Blue Lagoon.




Moorea Church. Magnificent vistas like this church nestled in within lush vegetation and the mountain range, are found all around Moorea.


tips from The Travel Guy

1) Learn a few Polynesian words. Hello (IA ORANA- pronounced yo-rah-nah); Yes (E- pronounced ah); No (Aita-pronounced eye-tah) Thank you (Mauruuru-pronounced mah-roo-roo)

2) The predominant languages spoken are French and Tahitian.

3) The currency used is the CFP (Comptoirs Francais du Pacifique Franc) – better known as the Pacifi c French Franc.

4) Le Trucks operate on most French Polynesian islands but make sure you ask the Le Truck drivers for their late operating schedule. Most stop running between 8 pm – 9 pm, after that, you may be stranded.

5) Book hotel accommodations in advance when visiting Rangiroa. There are a limited number of rooms available through small inns (bed and breakfast style) and less than a handful of resorts.

6) There are no sales taxes or other hidden service charges in French Polynesia. And tipping is frowned upon – Polynesian hospitality simply doesn’t allow it.

7) Getting to French Polynesia: Direct flights are available from New York City or Los Angeles, California on Air Tahiti Nui (check schedules).

8) For more information on French Polynesia please visit the official website: www.tahiti-tourisme.com