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It
was truly bizarre. I couldn’t take my eyes off her. Her somewhat silly
and mysterious smile made me sink even deeper into the pillows of her
bed as I was wondering if I too, like so many before me, would be taken
in by her mystifying spell. Tuscan women have that reputation,
especially Lisa Gherardini. Outside her bedroom, in the elegant and
formal gardens of the Villa, topiaries of oleander and bay – staple
herbs in Italian cuisine – stood like a well-trimmed hedge against the
age-old cypress trees that may have been around since Lisa played in
the gardens back in the late 1400s. Little is known about her, other than that this Villa once belonged to the Gherardini Family and little Lisa spent the first few years of her life, probably like most children of the time, being prepared to be a suitable mate. It is only after she married the wealthy Francesco del Giocondo of Florence that Lisa became one of the most famous women in history. It was in all probability, during 1503 when a close family friend by the name of Leonardo Da Vinci somehow became interested in Lisa and began his famous painting that would not be completed until 1507. Although we now know that it was about thirty years after the completion of the painting that Lisa became known as Mona Lisa. History and not even the best-selling Dan Brown book, the Da Vinci Code, can tell us why it took four years, spent alone with a model, just to paint her. Could it be that those four years are the real reason behind her smile? Surrounded by the same elegant garden, along with the old cypress trees, Villa Vignamaggio still rises over the spectacular Tuscan countryside. Though the stately house, like so many others in Tuscany, had fallen in disrepair over the past few centuries – mostly through economic reasons and the disappearing social prominence of the past owners – it has now been fully restored to its original magnificence. Located a few kilometres outside Greve in Chianti, the Villa Vignamaggio overlooks vast olive groves and scattered vineyards to the north and the splendid rolling vineyards that belong to the estate on the south facing hills. Combining proven tradition with the modern, Vignamaggio is no longer only a residence, but a world-renowned winery recognized for setting the standards of excellence in the production of Tuscan wines, some very exclusive olive oils and of course – the famous Italian brandy that is produced by fermenting the best pomace of the local Sangiovese grapes – their beautifully amber coloured Grappa. The villa has been completely restored and even somewhat extended in recent times. It now includes an Agro-Tourism visitors’ reception centre along with a number of modern guest suites and apartments, adjacent to, but separate, from the 600-year-old main building. Attached to the swimming pool at the end of the beautiful gardens is a new dining room that can be reached by a short walk down from the old Villa. It serves breakfast each morning to the guests who stay at the country house, as well as dinners on special occasions which seem to be at least once a week in Tuscany. The very beginning of Vignamaggio dates back to the XIV century, but the current look of the typical Mediterranean-style country house dates back to the end of the 1500s when the Gherardi Family acquired the farm and the Villa from the Gherardini’s, presumably the parents of Mona Lisa. Two years ago, in 2004, Vignamaggio celebrated six hundred years of winemaking, evidence of which was found in an old document dating back to 1404. This six hundred-year-old document signed by Amidio Gherardini himself as the estate’s owner and possible grand or even great grandfather of Lisa, pertained to a ‘batch of wine’ that was placed and aged in wooden barrels at Vignamaggio. From all the records available today, we can conclude that the grapes for this batch of wine were actually grown on or at least in the immediate vicinity of today’s vineyards. The present estate is comprised of about 140 hectares, of which about 52 are under grape vines with another 11 hectares planted with olive trees. Much of the remaining property has been left in its natural state, with a number of nature trails originating at the Villa. Another significant piece of property that surrounds the Villa, remained a typical manicured Tuscan-style formal garden dating back to Mona Lisa’s time. This is in addition to a more modern garden that can be enjoyed by visitors and the workers of the cellars alike. Shrouded in mystery and time, not to mention much wine and perhaps even more grappa, there is the sizeable bedroom that is reputed to be that of Mona Lisa. Complete with a large four-poster bed and a skillful reproduction of the famous lady herself on the wall – the one I was looking at whilst in her bed – her bedroom opens up directly to the formal gardens and yet another swimming pool nearby. Her room is part of the overall agro-tourism aspect of Villa Vignamaggio and as a rule it is reserved by a select few whose credit cards have no limit. In spite of this, occasionally someone like me is given the opportunity to declare that they have slept in Mona Lisa’s bed. Located in the heart of the Chianti Classico Region, the wines of Vignamaggio are exclusive to say the least. Be it the Chianti Classico Vignamaggio or the selected Chianti Classico Castello Di Monna Lisa, Monna being the modern Italian short form of Madonna, a name often given to Mona Lisa, they are all extremely well made wines created from the superb and locally grown Sangiovese grapes. For the modern consumer, one who prefers the newer style of international wines, there is the Toscana IGT which is made from 100% Cabernet Frank grown locally, or a very delicious Vinsanto, the sweet Italian dessert wine that is created from specially selected bunches of local Malvasia and Trebbiano grapes that have been dried until they have taken on the consistency of raisins. Located just outside the commune of Greve, on a truly stunning beautiful corner of the Chianti Wine Region in Tuscany, Vignamaggio is within easy driving distance of such renowned towns as Firence (Florence) and Sienna. It is certainly worth an exploration trip to a local cantina or cafe in Panzano to the south or Poggibonsi to the west. Then again it can be rather difficult to leave Vignamaggio at all, especially after a wine tasting in the cellars, a walk through the gardens or simply lounging by one of the pools with a glass of good Sangiovese, wondering if Mona Lisa really slept in the same bed. Perhaps as I did, while wandering through the villa, you may even find a copy of an old letter written back in 1659 that will put it into much better perspective: “Listen; I am a countryman and would like you to know what corner of the earth under this sky makes me feel so blessed. The place is called, after the vines of Bacchus and the most flowering month of the year, Vignamaggio. It is surrounded on all sides by the most beautiful grapevines, and the pervading spirit in this place merits this name. It is the villa of the Gherardis.” Well put if I may say so, and now you too know the secret of Tuscany, the wines, the grappa, but most of all, you too know the House of Mona Lisa GL More on Vignamaggio can be found on www.vignamaggio.com and Alex Eberspaecher can be reached through www.winecop.com |
![]() Piazza Matteotti, Greve in Chianti. ![]() Mona Lisa's bedroom. ![]() The gardens of Villa Vignamaggio. |
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