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Tobermory

 

The summer of 1955 was not that unusual in Tobermory or for that matter, anywhere else on the Bruce Peninsula. The farmers were busy harvesting the second cut of hay and although they resented the wealthy tourists from the south – mostly Torontonians and Americans – for buying up much of the available waterfront property, the extra money they brought with them was most welcomed. But action out on the water was not so great; for the commercial fishermen the catches of fresh fish had slowed down as the waters warmed up, and that suited Orrie Vail.

There is little known about the Vails or where they came from although the locals claim that Orrie’s father knew the local waters quite well. It is quite conceivable that it was he who passed on the 123 year-old secret to his son Orrie, a secret that would change, not only the Tobermory region, but also the way we would look at the clear waters of Lake Huron, or more so, what we would find under the surface of those mysterious waters.

The Great Lakes are full of shipwrecks and mysteries, none more so than the first recorded vessel that went missing back in 1679, La Salle’s ill-fated Griffin. With an estimated length of about fifty feet and, depending on what records you search, a weight of forty-two to sixty tons, how could such a large ship loaded to the top with furs destined for Europe avoid detection? Did it sink, did the crew intentionally burn it after making off with its valuable cargo, did the Indians capture it, or did it simply disappear to become part of an unsolved mystery? Orrie was sure he had the answer.

Besides being a fisherman, Orrie was also somewhat of a historian. Some would say he was a packrat, while others claim that he was a pretty good handyman and just liked to collect rare artifacts from the area.

The waters were calm and clear as he entered the little bay on Russel Island, a decent boat ride off Tobermory. Knowing the area well, he had little trouble locating the wreck that would eventually change the whole area. Within days, Orrie managed with some help to recover much of the visible wreck and drag it back to his net shed where it was put on display for anybody interested. Experts assured Orrie that in fact he had located the Griffin and without a doubt, an explicit story written in the Toronto Telegram about the find made headlines worldwide.

Tobermory, indeed the Bruce Peninsula, had literally become famous overnight and along with fame came more experts and modern technologies. Though Orrie also found six skeletons a few years later, the exact number of the Griffin’s crew, modern archeology determined, mostly by other relevant artifacts found on the wreck site, that the wreck was that of an unknown vessel not built until at least a hundred years after the disappearance of the Griffin.

In spite of this, the story in the Toronto Telegram brought an invasion of scuba divers, so much so, I have been told, that had it not been for Orrie and his wreck, scuba diving would never have become so popular in Canada if not in all of North America. Today Tobermory is undoubtedly the diving capital of Canada.

With the discovery of Orrie’s unknown wreck, along with many others, the Ontario Provincial Government established a park to protect the area. Not long after that, Parks Canada took over stewardship of much of the public lands and created Fathom Five National Park. Within the deep and sparkling waters of Georgian Bay visitors can explore some of its twenty islands, including the world famous Flowerpot Island and twenty-two shipwrecks scattered about some historic lighthouses. Fathom Five has become Canada’s first Marine Conservation Area.

It was another brilliant summer day; there were no clouds to be seen, as we stood on top of the newly erected observation tower adjacent to the visitors’ centre just outside the little village of Tobermory. Don Wilkins, the chief of Heritage Preservation of Parks Canada, was looking out on his islands as if they were his children. Here, and he pointed to Russel Island, is that little bay where Orrie’s wreck was found, and over there, he went on, is one of the few remaining lighthouses. In fact there were quite a few islands and it became quickly apparent to me why the natives called them the stepping-stones to Manitoulin Island before the white man gave them names.

Between some of the islands I could clearly see the glass bottom boats taking visitors out from Tobermory to the easily spotted shipwrecks before taking a leisurely cruise around the more scenic islands.

The new visitors’ center below the tower houses an astonishing collection of local artifacts, some of which date back thousand of years. And then there is Orrie’s net shed. Some years ago the Ontario Ministry of Natural Resources bought the shed and all of its collectables. With the establishment of Parks Canada’s visitors’ centre, a permanent home was found and the building with all its artifacts and of course the unknown wreck, is now open to the public.

It would be easy to spend a whole day around the harbour of Tobermory. In spite of a boom in tourism, the village has not lost its quaintness. Dive shops compete with antique stores and restaurants, yet in spite of all the activity during summer, there is the feeling that one is somewhere far away, somewhere exotic. I am overcome by this feeling once I enter the southern part of the Bruce Peninsula near Wiarton.

Perhaps it is the countryside that is different, the rolling farms with newly cut hay, or the fascinating limestone formations through which the only road winds its way to the north. No matter how often I visit, there is always a definite feeling of something different, something exciting in the air.

About 24 kilometres south of Tobermory, Dyers Bay Road takes you in an easterly direction out toward Georgian Bay. Here, about 12 kilometers from Hwy 6, Dyer’s Bay Road will lead you into Cabot Head Road and out to the restored Cabot Head lighthouse. A visit to the lighthouse, which you are invited to climb, and the small museum contained within the structure, will give you an appreciation of the vastness of Georgian Bay and the many dangers mariners of the past had to endure. The lighthouse itself is located in a nature reserve, and a short walk to the small and secluded Wingfield Basin nearby, lets you explore this small and secluded inlet. This bay is still used today by boaters seeking refuge from the violent storms that can blow up on Lake Huron with little or no warning.

When returning from Dyer’s Bay, if time permits, drive south along the lake toward Lions Head and you will eventually end up in the town of Wiarton, the gateway to the Bruce. The road leading south to Wiarton often skirts the lake. Indeed much is provincial park property and there are some great possibilities for a picnic and one last swim in Georgian Bay before heading back south.

A leisurely drive north to Tobermory will take you about four hours during the busy tourist season. Tobermory offers visitors a full range of accommodations - hotels, motels, bed & breakfasts, cottages and campgrounds. Reservations are highly recommended during the very busy summer months and during the long-weekends, or you will be extremely challenged to find accommodations.

For a day trip my suggestion would be that you drive as far as Tobermory early in the morning and spend most of the day in the area. A visit to Parks Canada Visitor Centre as well as a boat tour on a glass bottom boat will take much of your day and then you can start heading back to visit Cabot Head on your way home.

If you stay for a few days, you can camp at Lands End Park or any of the other private parks, and Parks Canada and the Ontario Parks also have some campsites. You can contact www.brucepeninsula.com for information covering the whole region while the Chamber of Commerce at Tobermory is a helpful source for everything from B&B’s to museums. They can be contacted at www.tobermory.org.

The website for Fathom Five National Park is www.parkscanada.gc.ca. Just don’t ask them about Orrie’s wreck in the new visitors’ centre, because they haven’t got the foggiest idea what ship it’s from, and that is just fine with me. We need a few good mysteries! There is little doubt however that Orrie is still out there looking for the Griffin.  GL
Wreck of schooner Sweepstakes
Wreck of schooner Sweepstakes



Orrie Vail by his shed
Orrie Vail by his shed



Hidden discoveries of the Bruce Trail
Hidden discoveries of the Bruce Trail



Big Tub Harbour lighthouse 1885
Big Tub Harbour lighthouse 1885