Home | Archive | Travel | Videos | About

	story Alex Eberspacher   photographs Judy Eberspacher Last night it was rather cold, especially for a late winter day. Luckily for us, we got only a smidgen of new snow so traveling was not much of a problem. My thoughts today however were not about the fresh snow or the bitter cold; for some strange reason I kept visualizing over and over that fateful hot summer day about 90 years ago... Sunday morning promised to be just another typical summer day in Mowat. The light morning haze that had lingered near a stand of white pine on the other end of the narrows had finally vanished, and to an outdoorsman like Tom, July 8 was just one more perfect day for catching Lake Trout in Algonquin Park. Around noon, when Tom and Shannon strolled down to the water’s edge, it seemed that, in spite of the war in Europe, this was a perfect world. Unheard precisely what was said between the two friends, we now take for granted that it was most likely about fishing, or perhaps about Tom’s mysterious girlfriend, but then again, this was also a good time to spot moose. The conversation has become part of the mystery. At 12:30 Tom cast off from Joe Lake Dam heading toward Tea Lake Dam on Canoe Lake. Shannon waved to his friend and then walked slowly back up to the lodge. Two days later, amidst the northern remoteness, scented by pine and cedars, his overturned canoe was spotted by the far narrows. There was no sign of Tom. It was not until July 16, well over a week later, that the body of Tom Thompson was recovered nearby. A large gash to his head, along with many smaller injuries, looked suspicious to his friends, as did all the metal fishing line that was wrapped around his legs. If those facts were highly unusual for an expert swimmer, canoeist and fisherman, and the fact that the weather had been calm throughout, the following investigation in Tom Thompson’s death is absolutely bizarre. Subsequent investigations have established that the body eventually buried was not Tom’s nor is it known where his last resting place is; yet some swear it is in an unmarked grave somewhere on the shores of Canoe Lake. The fact remains that the untimely and highly suspicious death of one of Canada’s greatest painters, and an associate to the Group of Seven, during the summer of 1917, probably was a murder. But for now, that shall remain one of the more prominent mysteries of Algonquin Park. Today, Algonquin Provincial Park has become an internationally known destination. And while most of us can visit only a very small part of this immense park, the more adventurous will backpack or travel through the interior by canoe during the summer months. It is only then that we can experience the true call of the wilderness, marvel at the few remaining old-growth stands of majestic white pine, surprise a bull moose foraging in shallow water or compete with a bear as to whom will get the proceeds of the evening meal. It is only by canoe that we can find the remains of Mowat, the old ghost town on Canoe Lake that is taken over once again by nature. Visitors by car can enter Algonquin Park only along the 56-kilometre long corridor of Hwy 60. While during summer a great many feeder roads are drivable within the park, the snows of winter usually make them impassable. Yet it is in winter that the park in all its quietness shows its grandeur, so typical of the Canadian wilderness, which we usually find much further up north. Forty-eight kilometres east from Huntsville, the west gate to Algonquin Park is a good starting point. Pick up your daily park permit and the detailed park map. It is here too, that you may inquire about recent animal sightings within the park and obtain any information pertaining to your visit. From here on, as you drive carefully along Hwy 60, keep watch for any possible sightings of moose, fox or even a wolves at times. Most of the trails along the corridor are open year-round, but snowshoes or cross country skis are a necessity here. Near 13 kilometres, take a few moments and scan Smoke Lake for any animals. Looking toward your left (north) you will see Canoe Lake. This area, especially the area that is associated with Tom Thompson, can only be accessed in summer by canoe. The scenery from then on will be truly spectacular in winter; a photographer’s paradise. Take your time driving along and watch out for some really rare winter finches that may feed on the salt and gravel that may cover sections of the road. At 30 kilometres, to your right is the only open and serviced winter camping site of Algonquin Park. Mew Lake Campground is plowed and accessible to any type of RV tents and tent trailers. A number of Yurts, propane heated and insulated walled tents, are available by reservation. Later on in the season, from February on, weekend campers will also have constructed a number of snow huts (Igloo type) that may be used by anyone if not already occupied. If you are visiting for the day take a slow drive through the camping area as the wildlife that can be found there may be surprising. Make sure you bring a few hand fulls of seed to feed your feathered friends as you dine out in nature. Please be courteous though, winter campers are usually dedicated outdoors people escaping the hustle and bustle of the city in their quest for peace with, and in, nature. There are many more roadside picnic areas, but you may have difficulty parking and climbing through the snow. Returning to the highway, turn right and continue on in an easterly direction past the Lake of Two Rivers to 40 kilometres. If the road to your right is open, carefully drive the six-kilometres to the Coon Lake camping site and Whitefish Lake. It is here that a walk through the snow and the stillness of nature may reward you with a glimpse of a moose, perhaps a marten or at least a rabbit or fox. If the wildlife eludes you on this day, you can be sure to find a multitude of tracks in the snow, as you will all over the park, and guessing what made those signs can be almost as enjoyable and educational as actually seeing the animal. Do not try to navigate this road if it is not fully cleared or if you do not drive a four-wheel-drive vehicle. As you return to the highway, the parking lot across from you is the starting point for the many sled dog operators that take visitors and wilderness campers into the otherwise inaccessible back country of the park. Talk to the park attendants when you enter Algonquin Park, they may be able to tell you if any dog teams are in the park. Back on the main road look for the Spruce Bog Boardwalk to your left at about 42.5 kilometres. This is a fully accessible winter nature trail of about two-kilometres in length. Hikers are most certainly rewarded by a few inquisitive and silent gray jays (formerly called Canada jays or whisky jacks), some rare winter finches, even rarer woodpeckers and occasionally a Spruce Grouse. Hand-feeding the many chickadees that abound most of the day at the entrance to the trail by the parking lot is especially amusing to youngsters. From here your next stop should be the park’s museum, interpretive centre and bookstore at 43 kilometres. It is not only a great place to get some significant and up-to-date information on wildlife sightings and the park’s history, but also some warm refreshments and food in the restaurant. An exhibit of the wildlife and flora of the area is highly recommended. If the unfortunate should happen and a moose is killed in a motor vehicle accident, in the past park rangers have transported the animal by helicopter within viewing range of the interpretive centre. Wolves can also be seen at certain times. Please note that during the winter the centre will be open only on weekends. Near 57 kilometres, close to the east gate that takes you to Whitney, you can visit the old and restored buildings of a former logging camp and take one final walk though Algonquin’s winter wonderland before returning slowly to the west gate. During winter the buildings are usually locked, but I find that this only enhances reality; without the picture display inside, the camp takes on a reality of its own. From the old steam train that chugged through the forest, pulling the massive timber to the Alligator (steam tug) by the lake, walking the two-kilometre long trail in the stillness of winter will give one an appreciation of the outdoors that few other places can. Even though wildlife in the park is plentiful, it is during the late afternoon that one encounters some unexpected wildlife such as a fox. Also, your chances of seeing a moose close to the road on your right, two or three kilometres before the west gate, will be pretty good. Once you have exited the park through the west gate and you have passed through the village of Dwight, as you approach Hillsdale, slow down and make sure you look constantly to your right. At dusk numerous deer will congregate at a deeryard and you are sure to see dozens as they gather together for their evening meal. As pleasant as the weather may be, always be prepared for a traditional Canadian winter. I would not venture into the area with summer tires only, although the main road is serviced by the Department of Highways and is usually dry. On occasion we’ve been surprised by an unexpected snowstorm and in spite of driving a fully equipped SUV, we had to stay overnight in Huntsville as the main highways south were all closed to traffic. Take some extra blankets for an emergency, a flashlight, some candles and some spare food and perhaps a towrope in case somebody has to pull you out of a snow bank Weather information, which I suggest you check, can be found on the park’s official website (www.algonquinpark.on.ca) as can any fees pertaining to winter camping. A daily park permit of $12 per car is required if you stay within the park. If you drive straight through without stopping, it is free. A camping permit will cost you $28 and $33 with electricity. To rent a heated Yurt is around $70 per night, and it sleeps six. The park link will also connect you to Algonquin’s sled-dog operators. Snowshoes and cross country skis can be rented at many of the wilderness operators that are along the road between Huntsville and the park. The distance from Toronto is about 230 kilometres, and as a rule the driving conditions are clear and safe during winter months. A final caution however must go to the traffic within the park. Although Algonquin Park is a provincial park, our government still permits logging in large areas of the interior during the winter months. You must be especially aware of fast moving lumber trucks and therefore always park on a safe off-road parking spot along the highway and on bush roads that are clearly marked as logging roads. GL	At dusk numerous deer will congregate at deeryards and you are sure to see dozens as they gather together for their evening meal. Spruce Bog Boardwalk, a fully accessible winter trail, is a good place to spot gray jays. Alligator (steam tug) is part of the park’s former logging camp.