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	story Alex Eberspaecher    photographs Judy Eberspaecher   It may have been the unusually harsh winters in New France, or it may have been the over-indulgence in Caribou (the potent drink that literally can cure one’s winter chills within moments). One thing for certain is in 1894 the early inhabitants of New France created the most boisterous and largest annual winter carnival in the world. Quebec’s long winters can be a little on the nippy side, yet one would be hard-pressed to hear a complaint - indeed, it would be unusual to hear anything except music and merry-making in Quebec City during the coldest days of winter. It is ‘Carnaval’ time - a time of parades, the now world-famous Ice Hotel, a huge outdoor stage on the historic Plains of Abraham surrounded by an amusement park that offers sledge dog rides, a horse derby, a snow bath, more ice sculptures than one can possibly count and plenty of food and drink, including a reception centre where children can warm up with hot chocolate. This is also a place where the whole family can tube down a steep slop, toboggan on a sculpted ice and snow track, partake in sleigh rides and games and perhaps attempt a little zip-lining. Festivities begin on Friday, January 27 in Quebec City with a spectacular grand opening night show and conclude on Sunday, February 12 with the closing ceremonies. Each weekend, starting Friday afternoon, promises exciting action-packed events. Bonhomme’s Castle is the site of concerts and entertainment and many opportunities to get up close and personal with Bonhomme himself, the Carnaval’s world-renowned official mascot. In case you don’t know him, he looks a bit like the “Stay Puft” marshmallow man from Ghostbusters. Although major events take place on weekends, many venues and activities, including the stunning ice and snow carving exhibitions from the International Snow Sculpture Event, continue throughout the week. On Saturday, January 28 the Dogsled Races get the outdoor activities running in the morning. On Friday, February 3rd the preliminaries for the exciting Canoe Races are held on the icy flo of the mighty St. Lawrence River. This is a do-not-miss spectacle for the whole family and often receives national if not worldwide coverage. This year the finals for the race take place on Sunday, February 5th.  On Friday evening the first night parade, led by Bonhomme, will surely get everybody into the mood for the outdoor dance party that continues well into the night. The final weekend starts off with Bonhomme’s Ball followed by one of the frequent dance parties. The Snow Bath on the Plains of Abraham should not be missed. This is also the site of the exciting St-Hubert Derby, taking place on the final Saturday and Sunday. At the derby, horse teams hitched to sleds race at high-speeds around a challenging edge-of-your-seat course. Racers from around the world, some of them as far away as Switzerland, Holland and Germany, compete on a circuit that is rapidly gaining international recognition. When you visit Quebec City and the Carnival be sure to visit l’ Hôtel de Glace. Quebec’s giant igloo is a place for romance or families. The Ice Hotel The temperature inside the Ice Hotel averages about -4ºC. Basically, it's built like an igloo with metre thick walls of clear ice, but it feels warm compared to the outside temperatures - which can be anywhere from minus ten to minus twenty. There are tours of the Hôtel de Glace and ticket holders may stay around the bar until midnight, but after that the fairytale structure is exclusively for the hotel guests. Guests actually sleep in beautifully sculptured rooms on an ice platform (separated by a wooden box spring and mattress). All the bedding and sleeping bags are provided. When we visited last year, nobody used the outdoor pool, but the sauna was quite the popular spot. For those of us who still have some hesitation to sleep in an ice hotel, a night’s package can include a room and meal at the nearby Four Points Sheraton, either as a backup or primary residence, complete with continuing shuttle transportation. Packages vary and cost for a night at the Ice Hotel ranges from $180 to $500 per person or there are family packages to about $450. Although the Ice Hotel is an integral part of the Carnival, it is operated separately and depending on the weather conditions, it is open to guests before and after the main event. It might be cold in Quebec City in early February, but I doubt it very much if many of us would even notice. Of course, like at all winter activities, layers of warm clothing with snow boots and a parka will ensure your comfort. Just in case you should get somewhat chilly after a long day outside, there are countless restaurants, cafés, hospitality sites especially on the Plains of Abraham and dining facilities all about the old town. Dancing in snow boots may not be the vogue back at home in Mississauga or Toronto, but here in the old city of Quebec, you will fit in quite well with the friendly people of Quebec and the many visitors from far and wide. One word of warning, be careful when you drink Caribou. It sneaks up on you like no other drink.  GL	Carnaval de Quebec at night Bonhomme's night parade St. Hubert Derby attracts international racers With its ice carved ceiling, the bar at the Ice Hotel always draws a crowd Snow-rafting down to the Plains of Abraham Near the Lévis turnaround point of the Carnaval de Québec Canoe Race on the St. Lawrence River