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In search of the gratifying grape and sharing a few sips with some
private wine collectors to learn
about their tasty diversion

 

story Maureen Scott    photographs Steve Uhraney

“Most men would love to own a pub or at least have a wine cellar,” confesses Michael Slattery of Mississauga, a devoted wine collector. “Wine is the greatest comfort food. It’s sexy and romantic. If you are having a romantic dinner, you think of candles, roses and a bottle of wine.”

Michael Slattery and Kirsty Dunne welcomed us into their Lorne Park home to talk about their hobby—or rather their passion. One of the first things you notice when you step inside their front door is their spectacular floor-to-ceiling glass wine cellar, nestled between their dining room and kitchen. It’s about six feet from their dining room table – dangerously easy to get carried away.

The glass cellar is climate controlled, maintaining a perfect temperature of 58 degrees Fahrenheit. Not too hot, not too cold. Fluctuations in temperature can cause the cork to expand and contract which could impact the quality of the wine.

Michael, a private investment broker, knows exactly how many bottles of wine he owns—500 at his home and another 1,100 bottles in wine storage in Toronto and San Diego. “I have a lot of California and Italian wines from the early ‘90s, because that’s when I started collecting,” explains Michael. “Some of the big Italian wines I have were awarded Wine of the Year, such as the Super Tuscans (97 Solaia and the 90 Sassicaia).”

Michael says his palate has changed over the years. “I now favour French wines, such as the Big 5 Grand Cru Designates: Chateau Latour, Chateau Mouton Rothschild, Chateau Lafite, Chateau Margaux and Chateau Haut-Brion.” His love of French wines may have something to do with the fact that he goes on an annual cycling trip through the Bordeaux region of France each summer, following the Tour de France route.

With just the right flourish and finesse, Michael opens a bottle of Puligny-Montrachet white Burgundy. Then he opens a bottle of his current favourite - a 1982 Chateau Cheval Blanc, Saint-Emolion, Premier Grand Cru Classe.

The price of French and Italian wines has increased due to demand,” says Michael. “Wine can be a great hedge against inflation,” says Michael. Wine collectors, like Michael, like to keep up on the news on what wines are fetching at auction, or online. He cites an example. A bottle of 1990 Domaine de la Romanee Conti La Tache red burgundy recently sold for about $3,600 a bottle.

What makes a wine worth that kind of money? “It all depends on first or second pressing, the quality of the grape, the vineyard, and whether or not it was a good year,” explains Michael.

When asked what his collection might be worth, Michael smiles. “I have no idea. I have paid $40 and into the hundreds. A few of the bottles are now worth much more. When we have a dinner party I might open a bottle of wine that’s worth about $1,000 - not what I paid for it of course, but it’s not about what it’s worth. It’s whether or not it tastes good!”

Although the perception is that wine collecting is an expensive hobby, and it can be, Michael emphasises that anyone can become a wine connoisseur. “You don’t have to be wealthy to collect wine. Start by collecting some $10 and $20 bottles of wine, however, if you expect to keep a wine for 10 years, expect to pay in the $30 or $40 range. Some wines do have a shelf life, so ask the experts. Try new wines when you go out for dinner, go to wine shows (such as The Gourmet Food & Wine Expo) and visit the LCBO Vintage Wine Shops.”

Brian Beaulieu of Mississauga started collecting wine about six years ago after a trip to Tuscany. “I go to the wine auctions, such as the annual one at the Living Arts Centre, and I read a lot and follow the columns by wine experts in the newspapers and try the picks of the week or month,” says Brian. “I started buying wine for the taste more than anything else. Brian says he has about 300 to 350 bottles in his home cellar, but adds, “I have a lot of wine, but I’m too busy drinking it and enjoying wine with friends to worry about how many bottles I have!”

And if your cup or wine cellar runneth over, you might turn to a company like Iron Gate in Toronto which offers high security, environmentally controlled vaults for “cellarage” and “private wine management”. Just like any hobby from collecting lawn gnomes to beading, one can never have too many, and if you do, follow the advice of Michael Slattery; “Wine is meant to be shared. There’s nothing more wonderful than opening a good bottle of wine and sharing it with great friends. Collecting wine is a very social hobby.”


Join the Club

The Ontario Wine Society is an independent member operated non profit club with a focus on wines of Ontario. There are over 350 members in Ontario, with about 40 members belonging to the Oakville/Mississauga Club. Cathy Bergsma, President of the local Chapter says the group meets every six weeks at Cucci Restaurant in Oakville. “We bring in experts from the wineries or the industry to talk about wine. Ontario is producing some exciting wines including ice wines, Chardonnays and Rieslings and Pinot Noirs.” For more information visit www.ontariowinesociety.com.


The Opimian Society

Founded in 1973, The Opimian Society is the largest wine club in Canada with over 20,000 members coast to coast, to coast, with approximately 8,000 members in Ontario. The main attraction is the access to over 500 wines from around the world which are exclusive to club members (not available at your local LCBO). Wines are selected by a Master of Wines who is responsible for tasting the wines and evaluating them in terms of quality, aging ability and overall value.

There is a fee to join, but no there’s no requirement to order wines,” says Keith Penfold, Area Representative for The Opimian Society. “We host several educational wine tastings and dinners a year. We have eight cellar offerings a year, representing wine regions of the world, with approximately 60 wines to choose from. The wines range from $12 to $60 a bottle, with the average price being around $18.”

Orders are collected and placed with the LCBO and the Opimian’s various suppliers, then, in about a 4 month time period, they are shipped to the local LCBO store where members pick up their orders.

Keith, a retired engineer, has been a member for 36 years, amassing a collection of more than 400 bottles of wine in the insulated wine cellar in his basement. “Collecting wines is not like collecting stamps,” says Keith. “Stamps are to be kept indefinitely, whereas wine is collected for the purpose of having a cellar and having wine available for all occasions.”

For more information on The Opimian Society, visit www.opim.ca or call Keith at 905-337-8947. GL