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	story & photographs Frank Greco Although there is no physical border between them, Ireland is an island divided into two countries—the Republic of Ireland and Northern Ireland. Much smaller at only one sixth the size, Northern Ireland has many hidden gems, stunning landscapes and a rich history. Its capital, Belfast, is bursting with culture and a vibrant culinary scene. When the sun goes down, visitors and locals alike go to one of the numerous pubs to share a pint or two. Of course, the most famous celebration the Irish contributed to the world is St. Patrick’s Day. What started out as a religious church festival has evolved into a secular celebration. Communities around the world commemorate St. Patrick’s day with all sorts of parades. The longest running one in North America takes place in Montreal. The shortest in the world takes place in Dripsey, Ireland (to the south near Cork) and travels between the village’s two pubs. They are approximately 92 metres apart. The Irish have had such an impact on Canada that even the beloved Toronto Maple Leafs were once called “The Toronto St. Patricks.” Belfast is renowned for having a pub or two (or more) at every corner. The Crown Bar is a Belfast landmark. This place oozes with character and characters. Dating back to 1826, it is billed as one of the greatest pubs in the world. It is a visual gem and a masterpiece of artistry with its etched glass, long red granite-topped ‘Alter’ bar complete with a heated foot rest, colourful mosaic tile floor, wood carvings throughout, ornate mirrors and “snugs.” This Irish pub is famous for its snugs. They are intimate, enclosed, somewhat private spaces seating up to six people and resembling church confessional booths. They were built for privacy, especially in those early Victorian times when people did not always want to be seen drinking at the pub! At city centre (Queen’s Square) stands Belfast’s answer to Pisa’s leaning tower, the Albert Memorial Clock. It was built as a memorial to Prince Albert, husband of Queen Victoria. Standing over 34-metres high, it leans more than one-metre (due to its weak wooden foundation). The visual effect is amazing. When I visited the tower, I could not believe my eyes. So I thought, imagine when newcomers pour out of the pubs at night and spot the tower, they must initially believe that they’ve had a few too many pints. Belfast has embraced two historic events and developed them into major tourist attractions. The most famous ship in the world, The Titanic, was built in Belfast. One can visit key sites in the construction through “Titanic Tours Belfast.” The guide and owner is Susie Millar, the great-granddaughter of Thomas Millar who helped build the Titanic and was on board during her fateful maiden voyage (April 1912). If you are taking this tour, ask Susie to tell her heart-warming story of Thomas and the two pennies he left his sons, now in Susie’s possession. In the 1970s, Belfast was a war zone pitting Protestants against Catholics. This conflict is immortalized through the world famous political wall murals painted on the sides of buildings (over 2,000). These larger-than-life murals are artistic, dramatic and some are rather shocking.  They depict political views, glorify military groups like the Irish Republican Army (IRA), freedom fighters, hunger strikers, peacemakers and so on. These amazing murals are located in both the West and East ends of the city. Some of the most spectacular and well-preserved castles in Ireland are found in Northern Ireland - from the luxurious 17th century Belle Isle Castle, to the Belfast Castle that overlooks the city, to the Carrickfergus Castle (north of Belfast on the east coast). Built in 1177, the Carrickfergus Castle was operational up to World War II. Just up the road is Ballygally, a 15th century French chateau style hotel. This castle comes complete with its own ghosts, the most active being Lady Isobel Shaw, who apparently knocks at the doors of different rooms and disappears. She experienced a torturous death in her room, which is open for the public to visit, if they dare! My favourite is the Dunluce Castle, built on the edge of a cliff, high above the sea (on the north coast).  A walk within its walls provides an awe-inspiring feeling and a magnificent view of the coastline. Make sure you read the dramatic story posted on the castle wall, explaining how one side fell into the sea in 1639. For the adventure enthusiast, there is the adrenaline-pumping walk across the swaying and wobbling Carrick-a-Rede (meaning rock in the road) rope bridge, suspended approximately 30-metres above the sea. The bridge links the mainland to tiny Carrick Island. Once on Carrick Island you will marvel at the spectacular natural beauty of the coastline and stunning views of Scotland. When the winds are strong the walk across the bridge is quite a hair-raising experience; but, if you make it across the bridge and back, you can get a certificate as your souvenir of bravery! Down the road from here is the Giant’s Causeway (north coast).  A volcanic eruption millions of years ago formed a field of hexagonal shaped columns (some with four, five, seven and even eight sides).  It is estimated that there are over 40,000 of these columns. These columns were positioned like steps. It is a natural phenomenon to behold and you will not be able to resist climbing on them (the tallest are about 12-metres high). There are buses that take people from the visitors centre down to the Causeway (about a half km walk). For the fit minded, the cliff top walk is probably the best way to get uninterrupted views of the famous rock formations and the splendid coastline, but be careful, there are no railings or fences along the path, just sheer drops that stretch more than 600 metres. If you are into hiking, the newest activity in this area is called “bouldering.”  You are outfitted with a helmet, wetsuit and a buoyancy aid, then escorted to a dry riverbed that you must follow until you come across massive boulders (hence the name), which you’ll need to climb over and around. Bring very comfortable running/hiking shoes! It’s quite a workout and at certain spots there are pools of refreshingly cold water. A careful jump out and off the boulders-drops can reach 8 metres into the glistening pool below can be quite invigorating. Only attempt this with the supervision of an experienced bouldering company like “Action Outdoors.” There are very few direct flights to Belfast. Usually, the most popular transfer points are London, Manchester or Dublin (The Republic of Ireland).  Air Transat flies out of Toronto direct to Dublin. From Dublin one can catch a bus, train, ferry, taxi or rent a car and drive to Belfast (takes about two-hours). Now that you have had a little taste of Northern Ireland, from its pubs and castles, stunning landscapes, cultural delights and a warm welcome for visitors, there is only one thing left to do. Book your trip. GL	ABOVE LEFT The Crown Bar is probably the most famous pub in Belfast and one of the finest high-Victorian saloons in the UK. With a wonderfully atmospheric setting, it’s a perfect place to down a pint Photo courtesy of Northern Ireland Tourist Board ABOVE RIGHT Dunluce castle has a fascinating history that dates back to the 13th century. It was constructed on a limestone cliff and in 1639 part of the castle (including the kitchens) fell into the sea below because the limestone could not support the structure TOP Sheep grazing on beautiful rolling hills are a common site. They even pose for photos. TOP World famous political wall murals are a grim, but artistic reminder of historic clashes between Protestants and Catholics. TOP Ballygally castle, located in Ballygally on Ballygally bay is just one of many amazing castles converted into a hotel that offers a spectacular view of the sea and is also reputed to be one of the most haunted places in Northern Ireland. TOP Carrick-A-Rede Rope Bridge provide spectacular vantage points of the surrounding natural beauty, but to see this one must cross the tiny rope bridge that hangs more than 23 meters high.  Just don’t look down if you’re uneasy with heights. TOP A drive along the coast provides phenomenal vistas of the famous dramatic cliffs of Northern Ireland.  A camera is a necessity.