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Nigella Lawson


 

story MAUREEN SCOTT     photographs LIS PARSONS

While she may be happily married, Nigella Lawson, the sexy British television host and cookbook author is having a love affair—with her kitchen! As guests of her publisher, Random House Canada in Mississauga and The Fairmont Royal York, we were invited to meet Nigella at a special three course dinner featuring recipes from her latest book Kitchen, Recipes From the Heart of the Home.  

“This book is simply the story of my love affair with the kitchen,” smiles Nigella. “I feel that cooking may be something like a love affair where you have your good times and your rough patches, but deep down you love each other and essentially, like a partner, you are comforted by the kitchen and it makes you feel better.”

With all this talk about the heart, we asked Nigella to share a few of her favourite recipes from Kitchen that she would suggest for  preparing a perfect Valentine’s dinner.

“Valentine’s Day is for courting, but now for me, it’s about making it a big family thing with my husband and my children. Nigella lives in London, England with her husband, art collector Charles Saatchi and their teenage children, Cosima and Bruno.

Nigella says she rarely dines out and much prefers to cook something simple at home. “I don’t believe in making a huge deal of things. I will cook something at home, and we’ll curl up on the sofa with a blanket and a big bowl of food. It’s very romantic.”

Speaking of romance, it seems that when I mention the name Nigella to some of my male friends, they start to swoon, and it’s not over her brownies. It could have something to do with her sexy accent, rubenesque curves, long wavy brunette locks and sensuous smile. Once called “the sexiest television chef ever to grace an apron,” Nigella responds this way, “It’s the food that is sexy,” she laughs.

“The camera man and the lighting make me look beautiful. I think my enthusiasm about cooking and the food is contagious.” Right! No one ever called Julia Child sexy or seductive, despite her enthusiasm for duck á l’orange.

Nigella’s enthusiasm spills on to all 471 pages of her beefy new book. Kitchen is filled with wonderfully rich stories as a prelude to the recipes, inviting us into the kitchen to cook with her.

“The book is geared to how we live our lives with express-style recipes for the hectic weekdays to recipes that take more time that can be made on the weekend. It’s thematically driven to weave the whole higglypigglyness of life. There are times when we need supper on the table in 15 minutes and times when we can take our time and enjoy the experience of cooking.” she said.

Kitchen is divided into two categories; Kitchen Quandaries and Kitchen Comforts. Quandaries includes chapters like What’s For Tea? Hurry Up, I’m Hungry and Easy Does It (How to feed friends when you’re frantic without losing your temper or sanity), while under Kitchen Comforts we find chapters such as A Dream of Hearth and Home, The Solace of Stirring (the risotto route to relaxation), At My Table (or how I found culinary contentment by banishing the dinner party from my life so that I could enjoy both the company and the cooking) and The Cook’s Cure for Sunday-Night-itis (Cosily substantial suppers that provide support and succour, or how the foods of yesterday can make tomorrow feel more manageable). Nigella even makes eating leftovers seem sexy as she turns today’s braised chicken into tomorrow’s Chinatown Salad.

“Over time I have met a lot of readers and have heard tales about how we cook and how life affects our food.” She listens and she clearly gets the connection. So far, seven cookbooks (including titles like Nigella Bites and How to become a Domestic Goddess), four successful television series, as well as her role as contributor to The New York Times has made her a household name.   

The daughter of Nigel Lawson, the exchequer in Margaret Thatcher’s government, Nigella graduated from Oxford University with a degree in Medieval and Modern Languages. A successful career in journalism followed, as deputy literary editor of The Sunday Times.

Eventually her love of food blended with her love of writing and she was asked to write a food column. In 1998, Nigella wrote her first book, How to Eat; The Pleasures and Principles of Good Food, which was the springboard to her television series Nigella Bites. The show was a huge success, helping to push her book sales past the 1.5 million mark.   

All seven of Nigella’s books have been best sellers and judging by the sold out crowd at The Fairmont Royal York, it looks as though Kitchen will join the winner’s circle.

As we tasted some of Nigella’s recipes –Coconutty Crab Cakes, Thai Roast Scallops, Dragon Chicken, Pigs in a Blanket, Sweetcorn Sunshine Soup, Red Current and Mint Lamb Cutlets with Red Leicester Mash - all incredibly delicious and lovingly prepared by Fairmont Royal York executive chef David Garcelon.

It was her Devil’s Food Cake that, pardon the expression, took the cake. It was richly sensual, deliciously rewarding, and downright sexy - just like its maker. GL



Pigs in blankets
with mustard dipping sauce

Pigs in Blankets

Makes 72
  • 1 x approx. 425g packet readyrolled puff-pastry sheets (gives 2 sheets, each approx. 28 x 21cm), defrosted if frozen
  • 1 egg
  • 2 x 350g packet frankfurters (gives 20, but you only need 16)
For the mustard dipping sauce:
  • 100g wholegrain mustard
  • 100g Dijon mustard
  • 2 x 15ml tablespoons sour cream
• Preheat the oven to 220°C/gas mark 7. Roll out one of the rectangular puff-pastry sheets to make it just a little bit thinner, stretching the long side rather than the short side as you roll. Cut the rectangle into quarters, then cut each rectangle in half lengthwise, to give 8 small pastry strips in total. (Stay with me!)

• Beat the egg in a small bowl and paint each pastry section with the egg wash. Sit a frankfurter horizontally on the left-hand side of one of the pieces of pastry and roll it up until it just seals. Then do the same with the remaining 7 small pastry strips.

• Cut each rolled frank into 4 small pieces, pressing the pastry back around the sausage kitchen pickings | kitchen comforts if it comes loose. Then place on a baking-parchmentlined baking sheet with the sealed bit down to prevent it springing open.

• Paint the franks in blankets with the egg wash, and put them in the oven for 15–20 minutes. The pastry should have puffed up a little and turned golden. You can get on with the other sheet of pastry while the first lot of franks are cooking and repeat the process with the remaining franks.

• Mix together the mustards and sour cream and put in little bowls. Put the cooked franks in blanks onto a plate and serve warm with the dipping sauce in the little bowls (for ease of eating and passing) on the side.

Make ahead note
The frankfurters in their pastry can be assembled 1 day in advance. Put cut-up pigs in blankets on lined baking sheets but do not glaze the outside. Cover with clingfilm and refrigerate until needed; store egg wash in a separate, covered container in fridge. Glaze and bake, following directions in recipe.



Roast duck legs & potatoes

Ducks Supper


Serves 2
  • 2 duck legs
  • 2 baking potatoes or 500g other maincrop potatoes
  • few sprigs fresh thyme
  • sea salt flakes and pepper
Preheat the oven to 200°C/gas mark 6. On the hob, heat a small roasting tin (I use one like a slightly oversized tarte tatin dish) and sear the duck legs, skin-side down over medium heat until the skin turns golden and gives out some oil.

Turn the legs over, and take the tin off the heat while you cut the potatoes into 2cm slices across, then cut each slice into 4. Arrange these potato pieces around the duck legs, then let a few sprigs of thyme fall over the duck and potatoes, and season with salt and pepper, before putting into the preheated oven.

Cook for 2 hours, occasionally turning the potatoes, for optimal outcome, which is tender duck legs and crispy potatoes, though both will be ready to eat after 1½ hours.

Making leftovers right
If you have even a small amount of meat left, you could bag it and mark it and store it in the deep freeze for up to two months - for future use in a mixed meat pilaff.

Orange and blackberry trifle

Orange and blackberry trifle


Serves 4–6
  • 350g marmalade pudding cake
  • 80ml Cointreau or other orange liqueur
  • zest and juice 1 orange or 2 clementines
    (approx. 100ml)
  • 250ml double cream
  • 300g blackberries
    (or blueberries if blackberries can’t be found)
Cut the cake into slices and arrange on a plate or wide, shallow dish. Drizzle with the orange liqueur.

Zest the orange or clementines into a bowl and leave the zest to one side. Then squeeze the juice from the orange or clementines, pouring this over the liqueur-soaked cake.

Whip the cream until thick but softly so, and spoon unfancily over the top of the saturated, not to say gloriously sodden, cake.

Arrange the blackberries over the top of the whipped cream, then scatter with the reserved zest.

Make ahead note
The base can be prepared a couple of hours ahead, then finish with whipped cream, fruit and zest as directed in recipe.