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Quizine



INTERVIEW with CHEF STEPHAN WAESPI of MICHAEL'S BACK DOOR



by Lori McLorn      photos by Steve Uhraney


Chef Stephan Waespi



Where were you born?
I was born in Switzerland.

How long have you lived in Mississauga?
I came to Toronto in 1980 to work at the Harbour Castle Hotel. I then returned to Lucerne to go to Hotel Management School. It was there I learned the fine art of flambé, carving, serving and reservation booking. Now this is dining at its best and the kind of dining that I love. We learned the extra-special touches guests at any restaurant should expect and enjoy.

How old were you when you first had thoughts of becoming a chef?
Around the age of 14.

Was there someone or something that had inspired you to take on this career?
We always traveled as family visiting relatives in Montreal. I liked the idea of pursuing a profession with a chain of hotels with the chance to travel.

Where did you get your training?
In Zurich, Switzerland at a Four Star restaurant along with a mandatory 3 month stint in the army. As I look back, the hard work and discipline was extremely beneficial.

Where did you work before coming to this award-winning restaurant?
At the landmark, Winston’s (in Yorkville) as well as other restaurants.

Describe your menu for me at Michael’s Back Door.
It is Italian continental. We offer a lot of pasta, risotto, veal, chicken, steak, seafood and daily specials. Our ice creams are homemade and our own B52 Cheesecake has been on the menu for 20 years. Every time we try to take it off we get complaints.

Are there some items that have been a mainstay throughout time?
Definitely the Lobster Angel Hair Pasta, Piccata Limone and the B52 Cheesecake.

What kind of dishes do you like to prepare?
I love Polenta. It can be prepared in so many ways—hard or soft. It is fantastic with an Osso Bucco or as an appetizer with a four-cheese sauce and asparagus. I am a very creative person. I like to be hands-on. I love to create new pasta dishes as well—such as an Aioli style or with fire-roasted bacon.

Do you have control over the menu or do you collaborate with the other owners Michael and Mario?
I create the menu and together we have a meeting and make our suggestions. We always have to keep in mind our kitchen is small. We produce a lot of food during very busy times with additional large parties and special events on top of that.
   
What is it you enjoy most about cooking?
I love combining dishes—creating new designs and how pretty they can look—absolutely! Designing and creating is my passion.

What is your favourite utensil in the kitchen that you could simply not live without?
Without hesitaton, it has to be my fork. I cannot work without my fork. How can you possibly untangle angel hair pasta or lobster fettuccine without a fork? I try to explain that to my young staff. It is very important.

What is a busy night for you? How many covers (settings for one) would you do?
Well, it is usually a 12 hour day and at least 150 to 180 covers.

How do you act when you are under pressure? Are you calm and controlled like a Michael Smith or erratic like a Gordon Ramsey?
I am not loud, but definitely I am like an army staff sergeant. I will continually say, “Lets move it! Let’s go! Let’s go!!”

How many staff work with you in the kitchen at peak times?
I have an excellent second assistant, Joe Rago, who has been with me for 20 years. He is always there for me. There are also four other chefs, two dishwashers and ten servers.

We are coming up fast on the holiday season. Will you be preparing a special menu?
Not necessarily a special menu, but set menus for the private functions. We really cater to the clients’ needs.

What would I find in your fridge at home at any given time?
Probably only salads and fruit. We go out a lot to dine when I come home.

What is your personal favourite comfort food?
Don’t laugh, but I love a grilled cheese with a side of dill pickle and either a beer or a glass of wine.

Do you do the cooking at home as well?
I think I only cook about twice a year. I am in charge of Christmas dinner and if we happen to entertain throughout the year.

What advice would you give to those desiring to enter the cooking profession?
Enjoy what you are doing. Teamwork is very important in the kitchen. If you put your mind to it, there are many opportunities to grow in a lot of directions—like owning your own place, traveling the world or teaching.
 
The Perfect Table Awaits…

Michaels Back Door is celebrating their 29th year in business this October. They have developed a faithful relationship with their loyal clientele over the years making a name for the place that has gradually spread across the GTA.

This unique restaurant was given its name from its point of entry—through an actual back door. Once inside, the layout provides several private dining rooms to accommodate large or small parties. The wine room, the piano room and the solarium create a perfect ambiance for intimate dining, family gatherings or business meetings.

Michaels Back Door is recognized for their generous support of the Hart House Hospice, Ian Anderson House as well as Mississauga and Oakville hospitals. They also created the Taste of Clarkson dining event held twice a year.

Chef Stephan Waespi is the chef and part owner. After 25 years he still maintains his creative flair and undying passion for his food and for pleasing his clientele.