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| words and images by Frank Greco |
| St.
Vincent and The Grenadines is a group of 32 islands and cays located approximately 160 kilometres west of Barbados. Only nine islands are inhabited. |
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These
islands are famous for their beauty and rich pirate history. Captain
Bligh of Mutiny on the Bounty fame, brought the first breadfruit plants
to St. Vincent and these have become a local delicacy. Breadfruit
is best described as a melon-sized fruit with a hard leathery green
skin, white flesh and a large oval seed. It grows on trees that
can reach more than 25 metres in height. Best prepared by
roasting it over an open fire, peeling off the skin, slicing it into
wedges and partnering it with Jack Fish. It does taste like
bread, at least to me. The other pirate that scourged the seas of St. Vincent and the Grenadines is fictional, yet the most famous of all—Captain Jack Sparrow (Pirates of The Caribbean). A good chunk of this movie series was filmed in St. Vincent and parts of the Grenadines. Traces of the sets remain for visitors to explore. Wallilabou Bay on St. Vincent’s Northwest coast was the main set location. In the film, it is better known as Port Royal. Local residents take visitors around the bay in their small boats (similar to those in the movie) for a fee and are proud to tell you that they were in the movie as an extra. |
![]() The Big Drum Dance is an ancient dance performed on Union Island during festivals and weddings |
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![]() Wallilabou Bay in St. Vincent is the setting for the movie Pirates of The Caribbean |
The
capital (Kingstown) bustles with activity especially on Fridays and
Saturdays. The downtown core is closed to traffic (almost), the streets
are lined with vendors from all over the island selling local produce,
the fresh catch of the day, breadfruit, vegetables, fresh fruit,
souvenirs and much more. The market is an amazing place to visit,
but
be cautious; locals will push their way by or around you if you decide
to linger even for a moment. I was fortunate to stay at a very elegant resort situated on its own island just off the south coast of St. Vincent called the Young Island Resort. The views from here of the surroundings are just spectacular. Here I met Glen Beache, the Minister of Tourism of St. Vincent and The Grenadines. We sat at a small floating bar just offshore where he told me the highlights of the islands. As far as ranking officials go, he was very down to earth, casually dressed and wanted to make sure that I saw as much of St. Vincent and the Grenadines as possible. He suggested that I charter a crewed sailboat to the other islands. I booked “The SULA,” a 25-foot single mast sailboat owned and operated by the Young Island Resort. I wasn’t just a passenger, I was promoted to a deck hand. In fact, I steered The Sula at various stages of our sail. The sea was calm but an occasional series of waves would skirt the bow to give us a salty cool shower. The first stop was Bequia, the largest island in the Grenadines (located south of St. Vincent). We dropped anchor in the picturesque Admiralty Bay surrounded by many other sailing vessels also anchored there. Here I visited The Old Hegg Turtle Sanctuary founded by Orton King, he has dedicated his life to saving the endangered hawksbill turtles. These turtles thrill snorkellers, divers and boaters in the Caribbean when they are sighted. My tour was topped off when Mr. King allowed me to step into one of the turtle holding tanks to pick one up. I lucked out. That day Mr. King was releasing five turtles back into the Caribbean waters and he invited me to assist him. What an unforgettable experience. I placed a few of the hawksbill turtles on the sand near the water at Lower Bay Beach (southwest coast) and with a crowd of onlookers I watched them paddle their way into the water and swim away. Mr. King explained to me that the sanctuary survives on donations and the few dollars they charge for the tour. It is well worth the visit. We hoisted our sail and continued southward to the island of Canouan. This is a captivating island of elegance as evidenced by the luxurious hotels and Trump casino (Villa Monte Carlo) situated on the island. Here, I witnessed the most spectacular sunset whilst sitting on the beach in front of the Tamarind Beach Hotel (West coast of the island). From Canouan’s southern tip, one can see the beautiful lagoon waters and islets of The Tobago Cays Marine Park and Wildlife Preserve, a group of five uninhabited islands bordered by a horseshoe reef. We dropped anchor in the lagoon and although the scenery is unbelievable, many visit here to snorkel or dive with sea turtles. As soon as I had my fins and mask in hand, I spotted a group of sea turtles and jumped in. I snorkelled next to the turtles until they decided to move on, but no worries, I spotted others. Next stop was Union Island where I was picked up by speedboat and powered to the neighbouring private island resort of Petit St. Vincent. The island is about 64 kilometres south of St. Vincent and is the last island in the Grenadines chain. Petit St. Vincent prides itself on not having an airport, no formal check-in, no room keys, no televisions, and no telephones in their 22 luxurious cottages— just tranquility and privacy. To get around the island I used a golf cart and followed the trails. The island is known for its unspoiled nature trails and its 3-kilometres of white sand beaches. Staying here felt like I was on my own island. Just a short boat ride from Petit St. Vincent is the most unique sandbar I have ever seen, the Mopion. It rises about a metre above sea level and is completely surrounded by the most inviting waters the Caribbean has to offer. Here I had lunch and enjoyed the spectacular views of the surrounding islands. In the middle of the Mopion are two chairs, a table and umbrella. Get there early if you are looking for a Robinson Crusoe experience or want a romantic meal with your loved one; it is a popular spot that gets busy fast. My final stop, Union Island. Joggers would love it here because the island measures almost 5 kilometres end to end. Roads are narrow and wind up and down the coast providing spectacular views. Locals will tell you “It’s a little piece of paradise.” Here, I was treated to an amazing performance by a local dance group of the “The Big Drum Dance” at the Amerindi resort. This dance is performed during local festivals and wedding celebrations. The group comprised of youth and their adult teachers. It was not long before I was pulled in to dance. As the drums pounded, I mimicked each dancer’s moves; it was an experience I will never forget. The Carib Indians who settled the area, originally named St. Vincent, Hairouna. The name translates to “Land of the Blessed.” But in my view, the whole nation of St. Vincent and the Grenadines is a truly blessed land. |
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TRAVEL
GUIDE 1. A Departure Tax of $15 US per person is charged to all visitors who have been in the country for 24 hours or more… so have your money ready. 2. Shops in St. Vincent open around 8 am and close at 4 pm. Most of the shops close at 1 pm on Saturdays and most are closed Sundays (even in the tourist areas). 3. Ensure that your valuables (passport) are stored in a safe place like a room safe and should not be carried with you as you go on tours or exploring. 4. The Caribbean is cursed with Manchineel Trees that grow along its shores and beaches. These large trees produce small green apple-like fruit and they are considered one of the most poisonous plants on earth (also called the beach apple or death apple by locals). Do not sit under it, touch its bark or leaves as they contains poisonous toxins. If unsure, ask a local before you go under a tree for shade. 5. There are currently no direct flights from Canada to St. Vincent and the Grenadines. The gateways or transfer points are Barbados, Grenada, Trinidad, St. Lucia, Martinique and Puerto Rico through SVG Air (www.svgair.com). 6. Here are some helpful websites if you are interested in exploring St. Vincent and The Grenadines: www.discoversvg.com www.youngisland.com www.svghotels.com (Hotel Association) www.turtles.bequia.net www.tamarind.us www.psvresort.com www.amerindi.com www.svgair.com |
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| Frank Greco is producer and host of The Travel Guy, on SUNTV and MENTV |